This weekend adventure meant quite a lot to me, perhaps most obviously because it joined my experience in China with the Ajanta caves. In particular I was looking for apsara representations because the ones in Dunhuang (~400AD) had so impressed me. Apsaras are Hindu and Buddhist supernatural women of clouds and water. These representations in Dunhuang were so stunningly beautiful, I wanted to see their evolution.
The Ajanta caves were dug out of a basaltic rock face layered with quartz striations which demarcated the layers of lava flow from so many millions of years ago - which formed the entire middle section of India and are known as the Deccan Traps. Into this ancient cliff side, Buddhist schools, shrines and monasteries were built - in two phases. 200-100 BC were the first 10. Then the place became overgrown during a Hindu majority. In ~450 AD a wealthy Buddhist benefactor encouraged the rest to be built and when he died some years later, the caves again became overgrown and the lair for tigers and other animal life. In 1819 a British hunting party "discovered" them again.
The caves were dug in from ceiling down with many of the interior spaces in the range of 4000 Sq ft. All the pillars, stupas and later statues were carved in place, top down from live rock. Nothing was carved and then moved. In itself that was a stunning feat - but the walls and several ceilings are frescoes and painted with wonderful depictions of Buddha's life. At Dunhuang the caves were carved from conglomerate rock and the walls frescoed also. But in that case all the statuary were modeled and burnished at the site. Nothing there was "live rock".
This ceiling was in its raw state and it's easy to see the lava flow here. It is thought that the existing layer had a puddle in it and when the new lava came quickly across it, the steam couldn't escape and so a large air pocket was formed. The area of this cave was about 4000sq ft and this flow was apparent throughout. It certainly made life easier for the diggers!
The original cuts were pure rock removal, but as the final surface was decided more rock smoothing was required. This shows an area where three different degrees of finishing show in one area. I was constantly confronted with the thought of stone tools to carve caves out of basalt with different degrees of finishing and talent. It was an amazingly difficult life, impossible for me to fully grasp.
Here is the hexagonal pillar, very finely finished to support the frescos - the cross beam, which was only stylistic as it was only live rock as were the ceiling and pillars - was slightly less
finished, and the ceiling was as above - in it's very raw state. Other ceilings were fully carved and frescoed. Remember these frescos are at least 1500 years old!And here, I was delighted to find, is an apsara!! As this cave was dug only a while before those in Dunhuang, the flying apsara - with ribbons - was a known image. Others were carved into the portico. These are other ceiling frescos. And for me the most amazing wall fresco featuring a Celtic plaid! Did the Celts reach central India too??
Most of the painted walls told vivid stories of the life of Buddha, from his early years as a wealthy prince to his later years as an ascetic seeking enlightenment. By the way, he first started his path to enlightenment by sitting under a bodi tree to meditate. Here is a leaf from a bodi tree.
The later shrines and monasteries were elegant in their intricate design. Here are a few interior photos. Remember these are all still carved from live rock. Nothing was moved into a space, rather rock was removed to create a space.
Buddha, being tempted by the forces of good and evil, touches the ground with his hand to become "grounded" in truth.
If walking is too arduous, there is always the 4 man palaquin!
Guarded by elephants! Awesome striations!
Followed by groups wanting joint photos! We were all cultural explorers and wanted a record of it. The iPad mini has been a wonderful tool for making connections. So many people have so rarely seen their own photo. I could take lots of photos and give instant show and tell. If people had email addresses, I've been able to send their photos to them. :-))
Trying out our mudra positions - pretty unsuccessfully! Mary, a classmate from Cornell, and Sophia from Australia, who we met on this leg of the journey. This was a fabulous day for walking, exploring and learning. I loved this place!
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