Ellora is about 100 km from Ajanta. About the time the Ajanta caves fell into final disuse, the Ellora caves were being built. Between 500 and 900 AD first Buddhists, then Jains, then Hindus each developed numerous shrines and monasteries within walking distance of each other. This must have been a period of remarkable religious tolerance.
The Buddhist shrines, were the oldest and also the most serene. In cave 10 the acoustics were so fine that you could count about 7 reverberations of a single sound of Om. It was a beautiful and memorable moment.
More apsaras at the entrance.
Interesting columns (above) and stonework (below). Why the rock was carved as if with barrel staves, I don't know. Nor do I know if they affected the acoustics. What I do know for sure is that it was the most serene place I have been in all of India that I have seen.
And here is a closer view of Buddha with apsaras above his head? (I got pretty fond of Buddhist apsaras!)
The Jain caves were the next to be built. Much more embellished with symbols, but at the same time quite restrained and orderly, with a lot of balance around entrances and within each sculpture.
Not so the Hindu caves which is where the ancient stories were told within an abundance of rock carving. Here is a series just of hairdos of Shiva's wives(?) concubines (?) camp followers (?) - I will say that when sculptures have more than 2 arms, or are the Ganesh elephant, I can't quite cope! That's when suspending belief is beyond me. But the gods and goddesses are as alive in the culture now as they have ever been. Temples of every persuasion dot the Indian landscape like powdered sugar on a doughnut.
So these cave sculptures demonstrate the vibrancy of the Hindu culture. There's something in these stories for every occasion and for every desire. It is a rich response to life and living, and people stream to these caves every day, young and old, rich and poor. I can't help but wonder how similar it must have been in Egyptian, Greek and Roman times with all of their abundance of religious relevance. Instead of Ganesh it was Horus..... Instead of Shiva, Apollo or Juno. Etc.... In India, each of these religions still lives from very ancient time - and they are really and truly a life force in everyday life at every corner, wherever you happen to be in India. It is amazing and curiously captivating.
But before I go into further rhapsodies, I have to tell about the greatest of all rock cut caves - and of its type (a top down excavation) the biggest in the world - next in line being Christian rock cut churches in Ethiopia.
In the 200 years from beginning to completion, some vision had to be consistently maintained, which right there is a major accomplishment. I envision a family of project managers who passed their experiences down by word of mouth over the many generations. It also meant generations of rich Hindu believers who were willing to front the money even though they wouldn't see the final product. A lot of local politics lo those many years ago!
From the top of the "cave" where you can see grass to the very base is about 200 ft. a U-shaped trench was built while simultaneously the temple, and everything else, was carved from the top down. The top of each structure and pedestal is the most elaborate because the most money was available from rulers at the beginning of the project
Here is a favorite bas relief of a comedic story line - and lo and behold, there is the sacred cow, whose sacredness is VERY much in evidence all over India to this day! Just another fact of Indian life that makes no sense to my western mind
After finally carving down through 200 ft of basalt, the planners decided more depth was needed and at the back of the temple complex is a gigantic, unsupported cantilevered overhang of live rock with ceremonial cells carved even deeper into the mtn. It hasn't collapsed in more than 1000 years, but I was worried nonetheless.
The animals and multi armed gods depicted in the story of the Ramayana which is carved in some detail all over the walls of the temple. A big temple for a very big story.
And here are some of the people gathered on a work day at the temple. I was surprised by the number of Muslim families.
And the guide, Amod Basole, who kept us all fascinated for two quite spectacular days.
And quite out of order is the gorgeous apsara I found at the museum in Delhi, which I found just at closing time and didn't have a chance to jot down where it was from - as I wasn't supposed to be taking photos anyway.
Yes indeed, if given the chance I would return to Ajanta and Ellora in a flash.
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