As mentioned in XIAN part 1, Mandy He, the chief administrative assistant at MSB, very graciously and generously organized this trip and we went together. We had a lot of fun chitchatting about sights and sounds as we sped through the farmland and up into a more industrial and polluted sight line. The Xian high speed train station must be no more than 2 years old. It is very clean and grand. Fortunately the subway line begins there so there was no confusion. We climbed into a nearly empty train which began to fill slightly after a few stop. When we got into the one station where you could change to the other line, then it was clear we had hit rush hour. Still not Beijing at rush hour, but near enough. It took quite a walk to find our hostel and we'd chosen well. A very nice place.
That evening we spent gazing at the beautifully lighted Bell Tower and Drum Tower. They really represent an era and I am very glad they survived the Cultural Revolution. Hidden behind them is the Muslim market - a feast and profusion of exotic foods and beautiful gift items. It was a LOT of fun to wander through the maze, buying food or "things" as the spirit moved us. I really wanted more fresh lavender, but that was not to be had. I did find some exquisite jasmine tea. It's on the boat ride home and I hope it is still as delicate when I next see it.
The warriors tomb was very impressive, now conserved beneath huge roofs. Apparently the construction of these thousands of individualied warriors began when the king was something like 13 and continued until he died at about 35. Then it was closed up and covered over - and somehow forgotten. But the wooden roof structures were burned and collapsed on the assembled army leaving a kind of rippled effect in the land. I found myself more impressed with the remains of the local villages from the time, probably because I'd previously seen so many images of the warriors.
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Individualized in so many ways! |
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I loved these racing horses. |
We stayed a while, had fresh-made noodle soup (yum) then took the bus back to the city in the smog and drizzle. It didn't feel like fun to ride bicycles around the wide and sturdy city wall and parapets, so we made our way to the comfort of -- ta-da! - Starbucks for a hot chocolate.
Mandy and I fell into a really involved conversation about moving from being cared for by parents to caring for parents. I felt that somehow a huge stage is missing - adult friendship and sharing. While it's important to have separation for a while, it's equally important to reconnect at an adult level for as long as possible before the tide of caretaking turns. Oh my goodness, we talked this up and down for a very long time and both felt quite moved by what it had drawn from each of us. I think it changed us in a subtle way. For me this was the highlight of the trip. Then a long steady, slow ride home on the sleeper train. And I really did sleep very comfortably for almost the whole ride. I'm so glad we went.
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