Grabbing The Wave ... and hanging on for dear life : Oct (3) - notes & photos

NOTES FROM THE TRIP - then photos

Yesterday the Magao Buddhist Grottos Amazing that they were begun in about 350 AD. Forgetting the crowds for a minute, the grottos were set in a hillside of conglomerate rocks and sand. In one there was a 28 meter high seated Buddha. In another a reclining Buddha of about the same length. Floor to ceiling were paintings: some of life and some medallions of sitting Buddhas (millions of those it seemed). The apsaras (floating angel like creatures with the appearance of ribbons floating around them) were in some of the caves, apparently drawn during a particular historic phase. They reminded me of the ribbon dances done in the Chinese ballet.

Another feature of the caves were the attendants to each Buddha. Some were beatific, some were fierce. Some were Chinese looking and some were negroid, and everyone in between. The robes were elaborate and delicately painted. All of this was done between 300->600 AD. That they have lasted this long is extraordinary.

In the museum there was a great set of displays. One of how the grottos were built and then decorated. Another of how the frescos were prepared. A third of how the paints were prepared (very intricate process) and fourth of how the sculptures were prepared and built.

But the crowds were oppressive. Being the natl holiday week, everyone is traveling, and this is one of the main Buddhist grottos in the country - along with being right next to the gigantic Singing Sand dunes in Dunhuang. The dunes are either the tallest or second tallest in the world. Majestic and carved - with narrow ridge runs between them. Sand is really difficult to walk in - especially dry, fine grained sand.

I got up to the first ridge and knew that I would hold the entire group back if I kept going, so I had to bow out of the hike to the top. I was sad not to go. And glad that I knew I shouldn't.

So instead I found my way to camel central to join on a camel train up the dune. There must have been about 1000 camels altogether. Most of them tractable, but some just bawling fit to be tied. (Some were rising, some were sitting down - others were walking - others resting - It was a sea of motion) All of them Bactrian. I finally figured out how to get my ticket called. First I don't know the numbers. Second I wouldn't understand them at full speed. Third I wouldn't understand the dialect. Some people took pity and again with non verbal communication we finally got it worked out. Then I was off and running up the sand hill. Near the top we got off and walked to the ridge to look out over more ridges and valleys of sand. Unfortunately, all this time my camera was at home getting charged up.

I did get a chance to run down the hill, but not as far as all my comrades. They ran down about 1000 ft in about 20 min and said it was wonderful. They also said that the climb was very hard, especially near the top when they had to crawls on all fours. They also said that the ridge was about 6" wide and would have been VERY scary if there had been the remotest possibility of slipping and falling against rocks. Not a chance! Sand as far as the eye could see. Thousands or vacationers were scattered all over the dunes - they looked a bit like skiers without any experience with slalom technique. No one had sleds, but I think that would have been very cool. There were dune buggies and those little small engine, 2 person planes buzzing around - and hundreds of thousand tourists with the fanciest types of. Camera equipment on the market - covered with the requisite plastic dust covers, which I've never seen.

How paint was made

How grottos were dug

How base for frescos were prepared

Apsaras are female spirits of wind and water in both Buddhism and Hindu.

Even Marco Polo remarked on these Taklamakan dunes - calling them "singing dunes" because of the sound of the wind moving against the fine sand. These dunes are in perpetual movement and are causing desertification of this area. From the top you could see it happening and when I asked someone how they would keep the sand off the new railroad and airport sites, he said, "China is full of people and they all sweep!"